For our family trip this summer, we decided the kids were finally old enough for Machu Picchu. BC and I went there together 15 years ago, so we knew it was a trip the boys would enjoy. They have learned about the Incas in school, and we wanted to share with them the magic of the Andes.
We started in Lima, which is just a three hour flight from Panamá City. We only had two full days here. Honestly, we didn’t see that much of the city. BC has some good friends from college here so we spent most of the time catching up with them. They were so generous and invited us to their beach house which is carved into a cave. They took us out on their boat and we were able to see pods of dolphins and sea lions. The kids loved watched the waves crash into the cave tunnels.
We did rent an air bnb in Miraflores so we enjoyed walking in the park along the coast and trying local bakeries. BC was able to surf in the mornings. Of course, Lima is famous for its food (3 of the top 100 restaurants are in Lima and Central earned the number 1 spot this year), but we didn’t have time to try enough. Since it’s only a three hour flight, BC and I would love to return on our own and hit up some of the world famous restaurants.
We spent one of our Lima days on a day trip to Paracas and Huacachina. We don’t normally do group tours because we find it’s hard with the kids to not have flexibility of leaving early, but the kids were troopers for this one. We left at 5:30 am and joined many others on a large tour bus. After a couple hours, we made it to Paracas which they hail as a mini-Galapagos. We took a one hour boat tour around the islands. My goal was to see penguins, but when we arrived, the boat tour operator explained that due to an avian flu, the penguin population was currently very small. We were lucky enough to still see some close to the harbor, but no large colonies. PJC and AJC were some of the first on the boat to spot dolphins which is always a sight to behold. We also saw tons of birds and sea lions. From the boat we were able to see a Nazca line and hear the history from the Captain.
From Paracas, we drove a couple more hours to Huacachina which is a desert area of large sand dunes. This was our first time ever in an environment like this. We took a dune buggy tour and we’re able to try sand boarding and sand sledding. The dune buggy was way more extreme than I expected. Imagine a roller coaster with no track. PJC LOVED it, but even AJC said is cross his limit for fun. I thought we would be suffering from whiplash for the rest of the trip. The boys were naturals at sand boarding, and they even got me to sled once which resulted in sand in every part of my body. The whole excursion was a once in a lifetime experience, which we loved, but I don’t think I have the desire to ever do again.
From Lima, we took the short flight to Cusco. Despite taking altitude sickness pills, we felt it as soon as we deplaned. We drank a lot of the tea, stayed hydrated, and continued to take the pills, but it took a few days to adjust. The main symptoms were headaches, a bit of dizziness, shortness of breath, and I couldn’t sleep at all the first night (which I didn’t realize was a symptom, but apparently altitude often affects sleep).
BC and I had been to Cusco almost 15 years ago. Of course, it has grown and become more crowded. The amazing thing is that Cusco is a layered city. You can often find remains of the Inca empire, Colonial city, and the modern development all in one building. There are major archeological artifacts on each corner that are often unmarked and can be missed without a guide.
This crowded city if now filled with people and cars, all on roads designed for llamas. It was a bit overwhelming for AJC who kept plugging his ears as the sounds of car breaks squeaking and beeping horns. He also was taken aback by all the street vendors who approached us trying to sell goods. His poor little heart wanted to buy something from everyone.
On of the most amazing experiences we had was an air bnb experience in which we visited the home of Quechuan women. With a guide/translator, the women shared with us their customs that have remained unchanged for centuries including using local plants to make medicine, weaving, how they swaddle their babies, and cooking their food on the fire. It was an amazingly immersive, hands-on way to experience the culture. Besides the sand boarding, the boys both said this was one of their favorite parts of the trip.
After acclimating to the altitude in Cusco, we took the Vistadome train to Machu Picchu town. The views from the train ride are incredible.
Our family is a far reach from the many backpackers adventuring on the Inca Trail. Instead we splurged on the Sumaq, which was so worth it. Although upscale, they were super family friendly and included most of the meals. We also signed up for their family tour of Machu Picchu. When BC and I visited Machu Picchu 15 years ago, a guide wasn’t required, but now it is. There are a lot of cheaper, group tour options, but I am so glad we did a private tour with the Sumaq. It came with two guides- one for the adults and one for the kids. The kids got little backpacks with hats, binoculars, magnifying lenses, and a compass. Their guide explained things to them at their level and used pictures so they could get a sense of what Machu Picchu used to look like. Also, having a guide whose specific job was making sure PJC didn’t slip off a cliff was worth every penny. While we stayed together and enjoyed the experience together, having separate guides also allowed BC and I to actually focus and enjoy our own learning experience as well. I also prefer private tours because it’s so much easier to go at the kids’ pace, take snack breaks and leave when they’re done. Luckily toward the end, they got a second wind and had a blast playing “Indiana Jones” as they explored the rest of the ruins. Later that day, BC and PJC had enough energy to explore the waterfall and hot springs in the town.
The next day, our train didn’t leave until 3:00 so we signed up for a Pachamama cooking experience. BC lives for these experiences- the ultimate combination of culture, food, history and connection with the earth. A chef and a Quechuan man demonstrated the process, and while we waited for it to slow cook in the earth, the chef taught the kids to make and decorate quinoa cookies. The experience culminated with a Pachamama feast (for just the 4 of us). With full bellies, we boarded the Vistadome for the trip back to Cusco.
We spent a few more days in Cusco. We had one full day in Cusco in which we took a private tour of a nearby animal rescue, a weaving co-op, and some archeological sites. Our next two days, BC had to work. We would enjoy brunch with him and then the boys and I went to Spanish class while he worked. We did 1.5 hour of language instruction and a 1.5 field trip. We were able to do market and neighborhood tours. It was such a great way to practice the language while learning more about the city.
One thing I haven’t mentioned is that Cusco had amazing food. We are at several farm to table restaurants with amazing food and super affordable prices. PJC expanded his repertoire by loving alpaca and Guinea pig. Although Lima has the reputation as the foodie destination, we were super impressed by Cusco too.
Peru is such an amazing family destination. From the food, the culture, history, and natural beauty- there is so much to enjoy. We created life long memories and are forever grateful for the experience.
Family Stoke 